This piece of wood clearly shows the gap

Pushing the fender in closes this gap up just fine.. this is important because the long spear molding transverses off the rocker and onto the fender.. it needs to be straight and flush for the future moldings to look good.

The remaining problem is that the actual radius' are not well matched.. I need to think what to do.. clearly the door radius is contributing to the issue now right above the door ding line ( belt line ) But this is light years ahead of last night and I'm only 5 or 6 hours in

Crazy Good! Hope it last after reassembly

Quick thing about GM labels: What a great article it would make to see all the different styles of GM labels and the years those labels were used.. That would make finding real NOS not NORS so much easier.. Old is black font.. how old and until when I do not know

NOS 67 only bumper.. black label.. I know this to be true because they punched more holes in the bumper for 1968 and superceeded the part number post haste

Blue and white is the 80's I think. These computer printed delivery tags off my inner fender wells ( yellow & white ) are dated February 2nd 1987.. No wonder they don't fit so well

Sway old filler neck

OK.. thats enough of that

How it needs to bend in WITH the inner fender well installed.. may need to elongate a few holes.. remains to be seen

From that to this basically

I know exactly what your going through. However, everyting needs a bit of tweeking to get everything just perfect. Even original Sheetmetal. I had the same problem with Blue label NOS panels on my 69. We bought repro, and the outcome was even worse. The end result, the Blue label GM parts were eventually what was used except for the tail panel. We finally ended up going with the new AMD panel and it fit like a glove. Maybe, this is the way to go? I don’t believe they make much in 67 stuff yet, but it is on the way. It’s a little more expensive than the other stuff out there but Cheaper and better quality and fit than Jim’s Heartbeat stuff. I highly recommend the AMD stuff. Their 70/71 Cuda Shaker hood was identical in every aspect including spot welds that even the “SO CALLED” experts couldn’t tell them apart. Just saying.

So I'm real pleased with the above but the hood fit is now the big issue. I squared the nose all up best I can and cinched all the bolts, brackets and pieces together.. basically everything shown in the Assembly Manual sheet metal page except the cocktail shakers because I've yet to drill the mounting holes.

Quite simply.. I did the most important thing and that was to draw the doors out as far as possible to give the wiper valance and hood the space they need. This also allows the weatherstripping and door welting space so the doors shut nicely... but the hood gap is too big at the front header and the wiper valance end is too small..

The values are in 100th of an inch like the AIM page

Everyone doing this is confined to the value that exists when you install the header panel between the two front fenders.. this is NOT adjustable.. The bummer is that you can clearly see the AIM suggests a gap between 6 and 18.. The best I can get with the hood as even as possible is 19.. thats too much.. shown is the front

The back area is a paltry 10 ( remember the doors are out as far as they can go so I cannot open the value up any.. basically both ends have no adjustment