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Victory Lane![]() |
The replacement pieces (Steele Rubber Parts) are a BIG improvement. Photos don't really do justice, but the material is considerably thicker, and masticated rubber w/embedded fiber (not like bicycle inner tube)... top photo has the new part overlaid on the one that was removed They also come with the firewall splash shield as well (#3921853)... ![]() | |||
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Victory Lane![]() |
SO... Here's the burning question. Hoping for input from any & all, though especially the L181A guys... The big question here relates to the firewall splash shield (#3921853, page #11-13/A4, with clip #3921872, also retainer #3921854 on page A5). I borrowed the photos below from the CRG site and Camaros.Net to illustrate. The A.I.M. revision record notes these parts were added 3/30/67. These items are discussed extensively on both sites, though the discussion mostly addresses '68-'69 applications. At: "Clips and seal for RH side inner fender brace" (CRG link), member Mike S. notes the absence of these from his 04B (LOS) and 05B (NOR) cars. What isn't clear however, is (A) whether this observation reflects so-called "normative practices", or assembly line aberration. And of course... (B) How this applies to 04D (LOS), i.e. MY car? I do not recall seeing this when I disassembled the car, but it was a LONG time ago when I switched the front clips (possible memory failure). I'll venture to guess this issue is irrelevant to the festival cars and like vintage simply due to the 3/30/67 effective date. But not sure what lag time involved to get into production, and what's 'correct' for 04D? ...again, all inputs appreciated, thanks!This message has been edited. Last edited by: Charley Maule, ![]() | |||
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Supporter Victory Lane ![]() |
I personally have never seen this in any way.. Very cool. tom @ camaropacecars.com ( remove the space between m,@,c) | |||
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Victory Lane![]() |
Charley, Running specification changes were maintained through the use of the NPC and the AIM. So what this means is that prior to a change implementation occurring the necessary parts needed to be produced and in plant. NO parts in plant means no implementation of the production change regardless of the status of the AIM. I agree 100% with Tom on this matter, and really a 1 month or more lag between a non safety system change (like this flap) to having sufficient parts quantities on hand to fully integrate into production seems consistent with even the later April survivor cars not physically having the parts when built. Phil@camaropacecars.com | |||
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Victory Lane![]() |
Tom & Phil, thanks (as always) for your insights. What you say makes a lot of sense (as always!). I'm also pinging Mike Rossi hoping he may weigh-in with a perspective from the L181A angle. Adding a few photos from recent work... ART PROJECT (One-of-a-kind/"For Personal Use")... Credit an assist to Mr. Rossi (again) for graciously sharing research from his vast knowledge base... ![]() | |||
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Victory Lane![]() |
The latest obsession has been wheel well flaps & staples. The flap kits come with stainless steel staples which are downplayed as non-correct over in CRG-land. Aside from being darn near impossible to work with... The recommendation was to use #16 galvanized steel wire (just like OEM) which I found at Home Depot for only a couple bucks. It is sturdy but still pliable and much easier to work with. Went to excruciating lengths to duplicate the dimensionality of the "kit" staples using the #16 steel wire. These came out pretty good (sorry, no pix). Unfortunately, found these simply were not feasible to use in some places (mainly; 2 staples pinched under the wheelhousing rear brace). For these I used a longer piece of wire, snaked it through one hole, and then back through the other from the back side. Because the wire is pliable, this worked OK to pull it into place and shape it like the others... ![]() | |||
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Victory Lane![]() |
My 'pre-fab' staples have seemed to work-out pretty well so far for the areas where access is less obstructed. "They" also say it's much easier to do these while the car is disassembled. After working on this for 2 days (going-on 3)... no argument from me! Creativity & improvisation a must. I now have a whole toolbox full of new specialty clamps, oddball-style locking pliers, and other stuff I've lived without all my life till now... In spite of all these... Plain old medical forceps were among the most valuable tools. And after this, maybe I can start a second career in brain surgery! ![]() | |||
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Victory Lane![]() |
So... Finished driver's side today. Going back tomorrow AM to do the passenger side. It should be easier and faster; 'cause (1) Already ran the 'trick' wires behind the wheelhouse support, and (2) have much better feel as to what DIDN'T work the way I hoped/expected! Was it worth all the trouble??? I SAY YES... "Before" photo at https://camaropacecars.com/eve/...713913697#3713913697 ![]() | |||
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Victory Lane![]() |
Charley, Yes I feel your pain, except I should have used your staples. I used the GM length and specification and they hook ok but are mostly boogered up on the inside because I had to beat them in with a hammer and then Peen the ends over. Yours are better than new. Well done! Phil@camaropacecars.com | |||
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Victory Lane![]() |
I (we) are giving very strong consideration to re-doing the hood latch & hood hinges in gray phosphate. (Yeah, I know... "I told you so"... water under the bridge...) Have been studying-up on previous discussions from Tom and from Chris Many, at... https://camaropacecars.com/eve/...733/m/9410051744/p/1 https://camaropacecars.com/eve/...733/m/8051048166/p/9 Also reading up the instructions, Q&A's, etc. at Palmetto Enterprises: https://www.palmettoenterprisesparkerizing.com/shop After all that, and numerous discussions at CRG... Still have a couple questions: 1) Both Tom & Chris used a 5-gal. stew pot/lobster pot type of cookware. With the hood latch handle sticking out. I guess 'flip & dip' is necessary to cook completely, but any special tips or tricks to get a consistent finish (i.e. without 'tan lines')? Photo from Chris looks like he was trying to create a break point around top of the handle bar? https://camaropacecars.com/eve/...383954497#8383954497 2) Is the 5-gal pot big enough for full immersion of hood hinges? Or 'flip & dip' again? (Hopefully they can be collapsed with spring removed... but enough?) 3) The recipe calls for 8 oz/1 gal. concentration. Both Tom & Chris recommended going much stronger. At LINK: Tom mentioned "whole container" for 5 gallon mix, I presume meaning the 1-gallon bottle (not the quart)? 4) The Palmetto instructions say to immediately (& several times after) coat thoroughly with WD-40. Tom also mentioned cooking his parts "for hours". With the objective of longer-term corrosion protection: Has anyone tried using a matte-clear spray coat (or something similar?). Or (after phosphate) are you thereafter committed to regular rubdowns with WD-40, in perpetuity? 5) Any practical experiences with how many times the solution can be re-used? Palmetto instructions say "several times" (vague) but do further specify until Ph => 7.2 (more helpful). https://www.palmettoenterprise...ons/common-questions | |||
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Supporter Victory Lane ![]() |
That was a long time ago for me so I'll need time to remember.. What's true is that all my phosphate attempts turned out awesome and I think that was 13 years ago... Keeping in mind I do not wash the car, use the car much or remove it often from a climate controlled garage.. Phosphate looks new still tom @ camaropacecars.com ( remove the space between m,@,c) | |||
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Supporter 2009 Victory Lane |
Looks great Charlie Where did you buy your flaps from? | |||
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Victory Lane![]() |
Steele Rubber Products 6180 HIGHWAY 150 E DENVER NC 28037-9650 PHONE: 800-447-0849 Part Number: 70-3309-45 URL: https://www.steelerubber.com/d...iller-kit-70-3309-45 I did not use the stainless steel staples that came with the kit. Several discussions on the CRG site (J. Hinckley and some others) indicate the stainless staples are incorrect. This is the wire I used to fabricate new staples: https://www.homedepot.com/p/OO...ire-50130/100242844? . I found it to be pretty sturdy yet still pliable. It's a commodity hardware product, you can likely find something identical just about anywhere. Also at the CRG site, there is some older discussion about the rubber thickness (i.e. not thick enough). It would appear they fixed this issue. I confirmed with Steele their kit used 3/32" rubber when ordering. Also I measured the parts on receipt, and confirmed they were indeed 3/32". Size-wise, The control arm flaps were perfect. The rearward/lower seals were about an inch shorter in length than the cheapo seals I was replacing, as such I had to manipulate them somewhat to best cover the pre-existing holes, but still made it work. ![]() | |||
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Supporter 2009 Victory Lane |
Thank you Charley, I just ordered 2 sets. I'll throw the other substandard sets away when I get the new ones. | |||
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Victory Lane![]() |
A quick update while I'm putting together another, much lengthier, one... This post follows-up on my questions on Phosphate treatment (5 clicks above, but included link anyway) Received delivery yesterday, of hood hinges & latch set (2 cars) I eventually decided to send to Jerry MacNeish. Worth the wait... they're beautiful. Better yet; ready to bolt-on right out of the box. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The back story... In addition to my questions here (as above), I had also put up similar questions on the CRG site at: PHOSPHATE... APPEARANCE vs. MAINTENANCE TRADEOFFS. Though this didn't receive a LOT of input, those response(s) I DID receive were highly valuable. In the meantime I had also obtained a quote from Jerry. We previously had used his services to refurbish my brake booster, and my distributor, both are flawless. One of my main concerns was longer-term maintenance. Jerry informed me (sending photos) of parts he did 10 years ago & more, that still look like new. Based on the feedback at CRG, and previous discussion here, I costed-out the do-it-myself option (considering startup costs for solution, cookware, disposal, etc.) vs. 'outsourcing'. I concluded it was pretty close to break-even. Key assumption being 'one and done'. If I intended to do this recurringly, the CBA would've swung differently. ~~~~~ More coming on the TRUNK (LONG STORY...) ![]() | |||
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