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Replicating to this thread: Sidebar from Chris' restoration story; to avoid hijack...
And adding another item; from my recently-excavated photo archives: This is from around early 1980 (-ish)?
I was in the middle of swapping the 2 cars' front-ends. Front fender is just hanging loose in-place...
Speaking of 'hanging loose'; just noticed (seriously!) the 'Hang Ten' bare footie on the wing, that being from a previous owner (sticker now long gone). There was also a "Thrush" woodpecker on the rear quarter glass (this being another former drag car). The woodpecker is long gone but its outline is still etched into the glass. Will see if I can find a photo...
Adding cross-reference link:
Question(s) About DOOR MIRRORS? at: http://camaropacecars.com/eve/...0019733/m/1273960597
Look forward to any insights from my friends... THANKS/Charley
A new revelation on the mirror: in whose light I can now answer my own questions...
To my surprise and great pleasure: The ORIGINAL MIRROR from my Pacer turned up this week.
With a recent cold snap (for Phoenix anyway... will you East Coast & Canada guys please stop snickering)... it became feasible to explore the attic without the necessity of life support.
The ORIGINAL MIRROR (broken) turned-up in a parts box. It broke roughly 1978-ish; whereupon I added chain-store cheapos, coincidentally pictured immediately above.
Much to my surprise; the GLASS was intact, along with very clear date codes 2-DMI-7 (PHOTO).
With respect to the secondary question; I.E. what mirror dates for the 06D coupe? I am now thinking the 6-DMI-6 mirror IS in fact the original mirror off the coupe (Even though it seems very early).
When the flood of memories finally hit me... I'm certain I remember trying at one point to take the mirror off the coupe... DROPPED & BROKE IT... so gave up and just put it back!
Discussed with John, he suggested also that as-of 06D; the plant may have been tooling-up for 1968 production, and the 6-DMI-6 mirror perhaps came from the bottom of a bin?
Game plan now shaping-up as follows:
1) Remove 2-DMI-7 original glass for re-use (Visibility still good).
2) John thinks he can replace the broken stud with salvage parts, once the glass is removed.
3) Refinish both mirrors. Best one for convertible (with 2-DMI-7 glass).
P.S. It is NOT EASY to take good pictures of a mirror!
More updates on interior & blue paint coming maybe Friday-Saturday...
BEST REGARDS ALL... Charley
When we spoke on the phone I should have mentioned my theory about end of the year parts, which mirrors yours. I have seen it before with early items on late year cars, notably an early block (T1014MK) in a 06C car.
I will see if I can contact Orlando to see what the date is on his mirror.
All the best,
04C IPC 1 DMI 7 mirror...Orlando's car
BLUE PAINT 2020 - THE SEQUEL (UPDATE)
Our attempts to duplicate the interior color, and match the glovebox door, have been unsuccessful.
As best as we can tell, it appears there was an unauthorized paint substitution for the PPG #13379 which had been specified. The product they DID use was (IS) a pretty darn close match. So much so, that it was not noticed until there was a need to match the color. Had it not been for the issue with the glovebox; this may never have come to light.
Not sure how or why this came about. We have some theories but all amount to conjecture. What exactly happened seven years ago; at this point we may never know.
More importantly though, it has no bearing on forward progress. At this point I have given orders to tear-down the interior and re-shoot all blue interior parts (dash panel, glovebox, door tops, any & all other blue trim)(except dash top). NEW PLAN is we will use the new #13379 lacquer mix from TCP Global/The Restoration Shop.
Dash TOP is gorgeous and we will exercise utmost care to keep it that way.
Earlier on, several people were taking notes on our adventures with paint. I need to emphasize that the issue here is not with the paint itself or the paint specification. The problem arises from an undocumented, unauthorized change, and affects only myself.
We went back to compare to original parts...
Still have the original dash clusters from both cars... One glovebox (Left) is a quick spray-up with the new paint. The one on the right is the 2013 paint.
For extra points: the two angle pieces are trim molding from the package shelf on the 732-Z hardtop...
Another "compare" mashup using the dash cluster... VERY CLOSE but just not the same...
I am convinced this is the right stuff...
1) COLOR MATCHING (LOCAL): Preferred option. But, lacquer paints & toners no longer available. Next please...
2) COLOR MATCHING (Out-of-State): TCP Global does offer a color-matching lab service. But the resulting color would still be WRONG & undocumented by the OEM color charts, etc. Further; I was not comfortable with 2-way shipping (priceless OEM parts) and a several week turnaround delay. I considered driving to San Diego myself with a sample part, but this was pre-empted by coronavirus restrictions.
3) JUST ACCEPT IT (non-matching part) AS IT IS: Really now... After going to great lengths throughout to GET IT RIGHT; not going to start cutting corners at the very end! Aside from the philosophical issue, the reality is I would never be able to refurbish in my garage like the pros can in the shop. Further, after several weeks of schlepping around between paint shops, etc. the original finish is beat to crap anyway (ref. photo post 6:27pm above).
4) REFINISH w/MODERN ENAMEL... Never really a serious consideration. Lots of extra prep work and still a risk of incompatibility. Maybe for next time (God forbid!)...
5) REPAINT: ONWARD & UPWARD... Let's get it right!
Best regards to all and a happy Thanksgiving (subject to local restrictions where applicable).............../CM/
A few things I recall..
I fought this mirror fight long ago and will try to dig out my stuff soon.
The dash board was painted on the Fisher side of the plant. The Glove box door was painted over at the Chevy side and MANY MANY times I have noticed with my own eyes a visible failure of paint match. So much so that I tried to duplicate it with my own car.. I think it matched regardless though
I've also noticed through the years that all the plastic pieces that are painted for the interior are slightly different from the steel pieces. I have no practical way of knowing if that is a by-product of age or of the base color of the part prior to painting . There is CERTAINLY a color variation of the plastic pieces that are injection molded in the needed color.. Like the blue steering wheel or the seat belt retractors as an example. I noticed that some style steering wheels from whatever vendor are molded in black and painted blue where as some other style wheels are molded in the color all the way through.
tom @ camaropacecars.com ( remove the space between m,@,c)
No exaggeration here, there is about 5 different shades of blue in the interior.
All are pretty close except for the kicks and the seat belts. The welting is runner up.
My one piece of advise to consider is that having everything match perfect may not actually be the most accurate way. Your pieces are so well prepped and fitted that maybe some variation in paint would make it look more " legit " for lack of a better word. Everybody has seen cars where the owner painted every single thing the exact color of the upholstery and it had a bit of a fake look. I just think you may want to consider keeping a few of the shades the way they are.. Don't get me wrong! You are the biggest perfectionist here so by all means do your thing. Just don't have a nervous breakdown over it
tom @ camaropacecars.com ( remove the space between m,@,c)
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