Right quarter-- BEFORE...

And the left quarter-- BEFORE--

Hey folks-- Need some help...

I am meeting with painter 9/7 as the body work phase is nearing completion and getting ready to move to the next phase; i.e. paint. I have compiled a worksheet with paint colors/codes information consolidated from elsewhere on the website; along with a number of related questions. I've posted this to the "1967 Pacer Colors" discussion thread at https://camaropacecars.com/eve/...0019733/m/5031049436

Would appreciate any feedback, corrections, etc. on this... my intention is to re-post a finished version incorporating feedback and corrections received. THANKS!!!

Following are some notes, suggestions, etc. relating to paint that I've gathered from various sources... Would appreciate any additional inputs... thanks again:

MISCELLANEOUS NOTES, TIPS, SUGGESTIONS:
* Couple things... the first thing is to ask this painter WHAT his product of choice is. I would recommend working in the system he is used to unless it is crap.
* YOU need to decide if your painting this car apart or together and if its getting wet sanded and buffed. If its gonna be single stage or base-clear, if you burying the nose stripe or putting it on top like GM. etc
* #1 Get the damn stripe correct.. Buy the stencil kit from Stencils & Stripes and take the time needed to get it right
* The blue for the nose is Marina
* Make sure the painter seals just the top part of the rear tailpanel to the back of the quarter panels.. The lower section did NOT have sealer so it could air dry out after driving in rain. The top part keeps water out of the trunk
* The trunk was already on the car before paint as were the doors... you'll have thin paint in the hard to reach spots and the bolts holding those three items on are covered in paint. You can pre-jamb areas before hand is you don't like thin paint.
* The entire nose was off the car and all apart.. You'll have good paint coverage around most edges that constitute outside seams..The nose stripe will be slightly misaligned in some cases as the header and both fenders were painted seperately NOT after the nose was assembled. This method eliminates dry looking door and trunk jambs as well as the white showing underhood
* Doors were painted naked so the latches and stikers and mounting screws were all unpainted unlike other years like 69 etc
* Our trunk latches for the most part were already installed and painted over ( so yes the bolts are white and the latch is white and the paint chips off..yes)
* The black rockers are painted black AFTER the car was painted white.. So if you go for floor board overspray you need to overspray white a lot and then some amount of black over that.
* Tape line between white and black is generally under the long rocker spear.... I taped right to the screw holes in the rocker that hold the long clip for the spear molding... The black on the front lower fender was painted after the body so the black line doesn't line up perfect
* I left a few areas "factory messy " so guys who have a clue would maybe be impressed
ALL THE ABOVE from: https://camaropacecars.com/eve/...0019733/m/9151099306 -- pages 1-2-- Tom McGinnity (23 March 2011):

MORE:
* Under rear decklid— tail panel blackout color comes up at 45 degree angle in trunk corners
* Front nose stripe wraps around inner edge of valance & fenders? (not sure if this was original technique?- I have pictures of an original front end where the stripe appears only on the surface)
* Front end parts were painted separately off the car.
* Clearcoat original applications appeared only on Norwood O-1 cars. (is this true??)
* Chevy 1967 paint chart can be found at: https://camaropacecars.com/eve/...590019733/m/64110849
* Pinstripes were painted on with a roller. Same color as the nose stripe. (see paint color questions on the Pacer Colors thread)
* There appears to be an error on Chevrolet's chart...they have 9387-LM and Dupont has 9387-LH. Not sure if there is a difference. (L181A L35; 02 August 2011)

And a couple more questions...

QUESTIONS:
* There is a blueprint for the pinstripes posted elsewhere on the website. Is there a similar blueprint for the bumblebee stripe?
* Does somebody (maybe Beugler?) already make a pinstripe roller with the correct stripe sizes & gaps?
* A post from Tom mentions to use the Stencils & Stripes stencil. Does this include specifications for correct placement/setback from front edges, and correct termination pattern under the bumper?
* I have pictures of an original nose stripe showing the white gap around "SS" letters varying in width, from 55MM at front, to 60MM at rear. Anyone else familiar with this?
* Pinstripes: 9331-LH shows Caprice Bright Blue striping color on Chevy color chart. But Marina Blue is 4850-L?? Are there 2 different colors used for the bumblebee stripe and the pinstripes?
* How common is non-original Clearcoat finish on restored C-1 cars?

Charlie, I can comment on the clearcoat. I used it on my car. We painted the white, sanded, painted the stripe, sanded, painted clear over everything. You can feel the stripe with your fingers even with clearcoat. Judging will be tricky. Mine was originally painted with laquer (LA car), no clear. Nobody does laquer now, all will soon (if it isn't already) be water based. Judges said they did not clearcoat in 67. I said I agree, but nobody laquers in 2012.
I found the finish nice on my car the way it was done. Matter of opinion.
I haven't seen any stencil here on the site for nose stripe.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Tom McGinnity,

(1) Tom & David thanks for your feedback yet again. Feedback from others is certainly welcomed. I'm ordering the nose stripe stencil later today. Painter likes the DuPont ChromaBase which I think is the same stuff Tom posted pictures of some time back.

(2) GUYS -- I'd really like to get some input on the consolidated paint colors worksheet I posted last week to the "1967 Pacer Colors" discussion thread ( https://camaropacecars.com/eve/...0019733/m/5031049436 ); to-date there has been no response. Particularly I need some feedback on the black color used for rockers and SS396 tail panel blackout. If somebody feels I am way out in left field preparing this worksheet please PM me and let me know?

(3) QUESTION-- My painter recommends doing the pinstripes by hand, he is familiar with the roller and recommends against it. What methods (&tools) do others generally use to do the pinstripes?

(4) QUESTION-- Also he is recommending clearcoating the body & nose stripe first then pinstriping over the clearcoat. Seems to me it would be preferable to clearcoat the pinstripe too?

(5) INFO-- I researched the Beugler website and also spoke to them yesterday. They have some stock single wheels that can get within +/- .01" or better of the blueprint specs (close enough for me), but they don't offer a double-wheel roller with the corrrect gap. May be a moot point anyway if we go with the hand-striping route...

(6) QUESTION-- Anybody seen one of these before (Trunk light). I am told it is non-original, but seems strange that it is painted same color as the inside trunk lid.

THANKS... CM

I'd just paint the stripe over the clear like I did.. At the time we painted my car we could not risk having a compatability issue with the pinstripers " One Shot " enamel paint and the Dupont Clear..

Here you can see that he used guide tape to simulate the pinstripe.. then put the door decal on so as to not interfer.. then he used freehand to follow the guide tape after I agreed the tape was in the correct original position. the framed picture of car 52 is what I used to show Charlie the striping and decal fitment

That trunk lamp is not original

Next time Charley and I are going to REFINE the ends of the striping to look more like the Bugler... always room for improvement

Progress update as of 9/18/12. Body work is DONE and car is now in the paint shop.

Still sweating out some details, mainly what color to use for the pinstripe and for the rockers & tail panel blackout. In the meantime, painters are ready to get started...

Left side:

Right side:

Rear view:

From what I can see here Charley.. these body lines are looking sweet.. and the fact that all the sheet metal is hung but not jambed is telling me these guys intend to block the side of the car with all three panels ( meaning they are going to sand the side of the car with the fender-door-1/4 as one unit pretending there are no door gaps ).. The car should end up much better than new with regards to fit & finish

Charlie,

Looks good. If you PM jeb he should be able to hook you up with a black and also he did the pinstripes on my other 67 Pacer and the blue was very nice..