Charley.. you get the props for turning us all on to the pinstripe stencil and will likely go down in history as the guy that perfected the dash top! We owe YOU brother.. not the other way around

Today's question-- Anybody have pictures and/or description of--

* U25 Light, luggage compartment #24,787 $2.65
* U26 Light, underhood #22,965 $2.65

RPO#'s, sales figures & pricing from Camaro White Book (1985)

thanks... cm

Ok Gang! These are my current decals soon to be removed for paint work. Wondering what everybody thought of the fit/spacing ? Just getting ready form the guy that's going to put on my new sweet Andy Wolf decals very soon.

Hi Guys, looking for feedback again. I have a pretty solid lead on a late March #406 block, w/matching heads, correct Rochester intake, & even a water pump, all dated within about a 10-day window.

My dilemma is it turns out the block is a Norwood block (need LA) and it is application coded MY (Automatic Camaro) where ideally I would prefer a MW (4-speed Camaro) block. As somebody recently told me, the ideal find is going to be looking for a needle in a haystack.

I've been looking casually for many years and this seems the best combination I've come across. Given the engine is non-original anyway, wondering if the Norwood & MY codes are deal breakers?

Over the years have seen several MY blocks but the MW's seem nearly impossible to find. My theory is the 4-speed guys probably blew up most of the MW blocks (my car being a case in point), while this was less likely with the automatics.

Any thoughts/advice??

(P.S. Anybody ever seen those U25/U26 lights mentioned above?)

P.S. Lawrence, will post picture of my decals as soon as I can get to them

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Finally... here it is. The Blues look lighter than they really are since the top sheet is still on these decals. The actual color looks like a dark royal blue. These are about 25 years old-- hope they still work OK; 'cause I'm very happy with the colors & fonts...

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Charley, if you are having great difficulty finding the correct block, and it certainly wouldn't have the proper VIN, go with the block you mentioned, providing you like the price. If in the future you find a more correct block you can rethink the issue about weather to buy the new find block. My thoughts are if you can handle the price of the correct dated block, don't let it pass, as you could be waiting for the same chance to come again.

I am confused. The big block motors came from Tonawanda, Ny and the small blocks came from Flint, MI

Hi Charley,
It will take time and lots of patience to find that one right block, but like David mentioned any block you put in your Pacer will not be the original one because of the VIN, even if it comes from LA. I can understand your dedication and persistance to make things as correct as possible for your Pacer. It is the attention to detail that drives you to make your Pacer as perfect as can be.
It would be great if you could find a corretly dated and coded block without a VIN stamped on it. There were some that came that way from the factory. My small block in my RS convertible is that way. It has all the right date codes, but no VIN stamped in the block. Anomolies pop up all the time in these cars! A LA block would be better than a NOR one for sure, but in the meantime, you can be driving your Pacer around with a temporary engine with all the right date codes that are spot on, When you find the right block for your Pacer then you can switch it over and you'll have all those parts for the other engine if needs be. :-) Just my thought!

Deck the block clean and you should be fine I would think.. Or if the motor came from a Camaro leave it alone all together.. Or if it makes you happy have it stamped proper .. Your not the type to hide anything so do what you'd like

Thanks everyone for the input on engine dilemma. The thinking seems pretty well aligned, and also consistent with our thinking, so that's good to know! Story is still evolving, but thanks for the inputs.

GaryB., you are of course correct the big blocks came from Tonawanda... I was referring to the assembly plant code that is stamped along with the serial# when the engine was installed in the car.


Some interim updates... Leaving the paint shop...

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...And back to the restoration shop:

Paint Shop Team from J&J's Auto Body, Mesa AZ-- Painters extrordinaire: from L-to-R; Justin Wells, Jairo "Ivan" Sandoval, and Daniel Widmer. Not pictured: Mike Henry-- restoration consultant

While my car was in the shop; they were also working on a 1970(?) Oldsmobile pace car too (sorry no pictures).

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Meanwhile back at the shop... John has been feverishly amassing a collection of stuff.

The original frame on my Pacer was quite damaged underneath from bottoming out on speed bumps, etc. & who knows what. Original plan was to cannibalize the subframe from my parts car. Once they got into it, discovered one of the control arm mountings was stove in from a ground-level impact untold years ago.

I'm a lucky guy-- John found another late '67 subframe in southern Arizona with no damage-- at a reasonable price yet-- and this will be the route we go for rebuilding. While car was in the paint shop, John's team was busy rebuilding the frame, assembling suspension, etc....

Best picture I could get... frame was propped up against the wall, bottom-side facing...

And found a dated power steering box...

More of suspension... Repro spiral shocks... we could have used originals off parts car, but John was concerned with safety issues (considering it was last driven in 1968).

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