I'm moving a discussion from another thread to this new thread.. My question was how the clips are fastened to the frame ( what method )

old thread old thread

John had written

Tom -

If that's the clip with the tubular protrusion on the back side, just stick it in the hole and use a scratch awl or a small tapered punch with a few taps from a hammer to spread the end of the tubular portion inside the hole. In the plant, we used a "burp gun" (air hammer) with a tapered punch.

John
'69 Z/28
All Original/Unrestored

I took this picture last night.. So I'm wondering if I would hit the Craftsman punch with a hammer then whirl it around to mushroom the tube on the frame backside or would I use the awl to whirl it around the hole in the frame by hand? I would imagine that using a tapered punch on the end of a small air hammer would privide the needed energy to flatten the clip out flat to the frame..? That also would provide spring tension to keep the clip in place like originals?

I just noticed my 10 thousandth post.. ugh

Have you thought about using a center punch? Because of the taper, the farther you drove it in should flair the backside out until the punch reaches the diameter of the hole in the clip.

Yes.. I'm thinking so myself.. I think I'm going to drill a hole in a piece of steel and try one on that.. that way I can see the results on the back side and also practice not scratching the hell out of my frame rail..I can also give it the death test to see how durable it is

My concern is how much just using a drift punch can wrap the tube in a mushroom shape from behind.. not very much I gather.. If that was a real rivet it would mushroom nicely I suppose..

Lots to learn

Also need to remember to position the clip for the big 3/8 fuel line... upside down must be for the small line? or the brake line on the other side of the frame?

Hi Guys
In my side job i use a special punch for tubular rivets that rounds and flattens the rivet on the back side, i use 1/8" tubular rivets, but the heads on the rivets i use is solid.I will try and get a picture of the rivet and the punch.

PLEASE do.. I'm hoping for a gentler approach so the clip and the frame don't get scratched.. for obvious reasons

Here you go Tom :

pic 2

pic 3

FANTASTIC..........and the pityful part is that I have this book..

I'm searching for the tool now!

Looking at the picture it now makes sense that you would maybe put the lines into the clips first and then fasten them?

Tom,

Couple of old restoration ideas that I have used in the past that may work for you:

I think most (if not all) of the clips can be accessed with a custom made wrench from the backside right?

I have done these in the past with a small custom wrench (torch and bend to fit- each custom some long-some short)-using a small bolt through the clip with a flat washer on the front to protect the clip face-and a nut on the rear to mushroom the rear of the clip.

first hook onto the back of the nut then tighten the bolt against the nut until the clip is tight then loosen the bolt until the nut falls off in the frame. If you are lucky it stays in the wrench. Next remove the wrench pull the bolt out then fish the nut out with a magnet.

The second way to do this could be with pop rivet gun and a good hard nail with a head on it where you insert the nail reverse through the rear of the clip then pull the nail stem (like you would with a rivet) through the face of the clip. The nail head should smash and expand the clip as you pull against it. Again use a flat washer to protect the clip face from damage, and then fish the used nail out with an extention magnet.

Done and tight as you want to make it.