I've been fooled before but at this point it sure sounds like a grounding problem.
When I replaced my wire there probably were at least four areas that were potential problems.
You can always start out at the connection.

Kinda funny this came up this year. My headlights have opened but dont close for several years(just never get around to it). Last couple years I can hear a relay in the fender opening and closing when I drive.Can not make it do it unless I'm driving.Well jumped in the turd the other day and turned on lights on the way home.No dash lights!Anybody think this is ALL conected or just things starting to pile up?

Open no close or vice versa is probably one of the three relays. buy one and swap it to all three positions til it works..

No dash is most likely the reostat inside the headlamp switch.. both of these items are cheap and easy to replace.. get at it

What about the relay click when driving? All I can think of is a short but has never kicked a fuse out.

quote:

Originally posted by Lawrance Weaver:
What about the relay click when driving? All I can think of is a short but has never kicked a fuse out.

Larry, That clicking you hear could be the circuit breaker kicking in and out because the coil of relay #3 is not energizing when the ignition is turned on. This condition would create a direct short to ground causing the circuit breaker to cycle on and off. I would try disconnecting to ground wire at R3, then turn on the ignition. If the doors close, replace relay #3

This message has been edited. Last edited by: PeterPar,

There is no fuse..only the circuit breaker next to the relays..

Par is right

As I laid in bed last night, I realized I misspoke when I said the doors would close if you disconnected the ground from R3. The clicking should stop, but the doors need the the ground to completely close. Sorry, I didn't follow the circuit all the through the close process to see what other effects removing the ground wire would have. Anyway, I think you'll find that R3 is bad and needs to be replace.

Well, I will have to try these things but,the clicking relay(or breaker) is only when moving down the road.NEVER at iddle and the doors never close.Gotta dig into it and have to do when I have some one to help,hear that Bates????

quote:

Originally posted by Lawrance Weaver:
Well, I will have to try these things but,the clicking relay(or breaker) is only when moving down the road.NEVER at iddle and the doors never close.

Weave, the fact that neither door is closing makes me fairly certain your problem has to be with relays R2 or R3. If the problem was with the door limits, the odds are one of the motors would probably work. Usually, an intermittent condition is caused by a loose connection or broken wire. This could possibly explain the clicking noise only while driving down the road. If the circuit breaker was bad and the contacts were in an open state, the vibrations of driving could cause the contacts to bounce between an open and closed position, creating the clicking noise. I would get a 12V test light and start checking for power at both sides of the circuit breaker. It looks as though you should have voltage to both terminals without the key on. If you only have voltage to the battery side terminal, this should indicate the circuit breaker is bad. If there is power to both, turn the key to on and move on to the smaller brown wires that energize the coil of R2 and R3. These should be hot also and will show that the coils should be energized. If so, check the larger brown wire on R2 for voltage there. If you have 12V here, this is telling you the coil and contacts of R2 are working properly and you now need to check if R3 is working. Take one end of the test light and touch it to the dark blue wire at R3. Take the probe end of the light and touch it the large brown wire at R2. The light should come on. If it doesn't this is indicating the coil on R3 is not energizing to change the ground path from the brown wire to the dark blue.
When you get an opportunity to try this. let me know what you find and we'll go from there.

Thanks Peter,working at Watkins Glen next 2 days.I'm going to try to work on car sun becuase next fri is the Syracuse nats (again).Been running around like a chicken with my head cut off the month!! Will get on it soon ,there is a camaro supplier at the nats most years so I could get relays while there.Will keep you posted!Off to the track!

Did somebody ask for help? Why yes I'd love to!

Between youre naps or wait to syr nats and you can sit on a towel in the 90degree parking lot and do it?

Sorry guys, but I finally got around to removing headlight switch. I'm planning to put a new one in and then see what happens. Prior to removing the switch I tried one final time to get dash lights. i checked tails light (working) and brake lights (working) as a friend said to check as this could mean a fuse if those rear lights don't work.
Anyway, for the first time the headlight door on the right side didn't open. The headlight is on, but door doesn't open. Tried it several times, turned key off, then on, tried again.
Could the headlight door on right side not opening have anything to do with the headlight switch?
I read the other answer being a bad ground. So you know, headlight switch was used original, soon to be replaced. Wiring harness is brand new. Both headlight motor doors DID open until now and I thought the dash lights DID work at one point in the past (but I could be wrong).
I'll let you know what happens after I try the new switch.
Larry have fun at the Glen, I've been a few times ages ago and loved it.

quote:

Originally posted by David Parr:
for the first time the headlight door on the right side didn't open. The headlight is on, but door doesn't open. Tried it several times, turned key off, then on, tried again.
Could the headlight door on right side not opening have anything to do with the headlight switch?
I read the other answer being a bad ground. So you know, headlight switch was used original, soon to be replaced. Wiring harness is brand new. Both headlight motor doors DID open until now and I thought the dash lights DID work at one point in the past (but I could be wrong).
I'll let you know what happens after I try the new switch.

David, the only function the headlite switch provides to the headlite doors is to energize relay #1 to open the doors. Because the doors are wired in parrallel to each other, what one does, so does the other. In other words, the switch cannot effect the operation of one door and not the other. Like I said to Weave above, if one door is opening the problem should be in the limit switches or motor. You've most likely lost a ground at the outer limit or have an open contact at the inner limit of the door that isn't opening.

On the dash lites, I would take a 12V test light and check the center contact of one of the dash lites sockets. This will tell you if there is power to lite and the problem is with a ground. If you have 12V there, I would check to see if the instrument gauge cluster is grounded to the dash. I had a friend who had rewired his dash and he had this problem. When the dash cluster was removed, so was a wire that bonded the gauge cluster to the dash. It went unnoticed and was not reinstalled during the reassembly causing none of the dash lites to work.