Tom, Great pictures and text! This is what this site is all about to me. Sharing progress and tips, sending pictures, etc. Not bickering with other site a%%holes and such. I love it! I am getting my garage in shape for an all winter extravaganza. Hope to get back at the car very soon. I think when I did the red car I noticed the divots by the RS molding holes. Are those flagpoles a little long? They look like they are five feet tall! LOL Looks super Tom, keep up the good work!
This is what this site is all about to me. Sharing progress and tips, sending pictures, etc.
We have a true craftsman in the art of bodywork hidden right here in our midst. Wish we could get him to do some photos or a video of him working on his pace car. He plans on having it done by Spring, as he has a special need for it.
Geoff Sutherland is a master of the art of shrinking metal, and uses lead, instead of bondo. He uses lead for all repairs. In his lifetime he has mastered the use of slapsticks and files, and doesn't like bondo, (down in Australia they call it "Nickey"). Wish we could get him more involved here. He's a guy that could really put on an educational forum.
Bill, we need an icon with an Austrailian flag, for our boys down under.
Posts: 2961 | Location: Illinois | Registered: 26 August 2006
I can see repairing external sheetmetal with lead.. But nooks and crannies have got to be near impossible to work that stuff on.. Take this door for example.. after I sandblasted the pinch seam area I had the expected pucker marks ( crater face ).. Smearing in the green putty with your fingers and having a three beer sanding session ( ok 6 but whose counting ) is the only way in the world I can think to make it mint again.. You can't just bury it in primer bacause you'll loose all the sheet metal detail and have that " Bondo bucket" look. With the green stuff you can sand it all back down but the pock marks stay filled.. one heavy pull of primer after that and some finish work and your good
tom @ camaropacecars.com ( remove the space between m,@,c)
Posts: 13401 | Location: Arlington Mass | Registered: 01 May 2005
Here is a door pic that Ken Heebner (the guy from Colorado I bought the car from) sent me. I knew I had a solid door here...and got the pucker marks just as I suspected
tom @ camaropacecars.com ( remove the space between m,@,c)
Posts: 13401 | Location: Arlington Mass | Registered: 01 May 2005
Once the time has been spent you can expect this type of success.You've got to remember to finger sand every spot weld crater back out to bare steel and to fold and sharpen the sand paper to dig the primer and putty from the tight overlap seam.. The plan is to keep taking all the primer down so the whole repair looks thin like original..Following the line you can see the spot weld dimples and subsequent wavyness..If you remove that you end up fake looking
tom @ camaropacecars.com ( remove the space between m,@,c)
Posts: 13401 | Location: Arlington Mass | Registered: 01 May 2005
Looking at this door wetted up with Prepsol you can see that the reflection of my house is crisp. BUT the reflection of the telephone pole is wavy at the bottom. It is reflecting the remains of those weird RS hole distortions and I am hoping it will come out with the next round of primer and blocking. At that point I'll hang them on the car and finish any tweaking before final prep...
tom @ camaropacecars.com ( remove the space between m,@,c)
Posts: 13401 | Location: Arlington Mass | Registered: 01 May 2005
Marvin and Gary.. thanks.. wasn't sure if people give a rats a ss about this stuff. I like it, so its good to know others do too.. I might add. These gifts showed up at my door last week from Gary.. Exceptionally nice form a great guy! Thanks Gary
What a group of guys here
tom @ camaropacecars.com ( remove the space between m,@,c)
Posts: 13401 | Location: Arlington Mass | Registered: 01 May 2005
I highly encourage you to do so. This stuff is perfect for all your hardware. No sanding, wire wheeling required. Just pour it into a coffee can soak your bolts over night and you'll have bran new raw steel hardware. All the rust will be gone!!!
Posts: 1416 | Location: Kansas | Registered: 02 June 2007
I can see repairing external sheetmetal with lead.. But nooks and crannies have got to be near impossible to work that stuff on.. Take this door for example.. after I sandblasted the pinch seam area I had the expected pucker marks ( crater face ).. Smearing in the green putty with your fingers and having a three beer sanding session ( ok 6 but whose counting ) is the only way in the world I can think to make it mint again.. You can't just bury it in primer bacause you'll loose all the sheet metal detail and have that " Bondo bucket" look. With the green stuff you can sand it all back down but the pock marks stay filled.. one heavy pull of primer after that and some finish work and your good
Completely agree with you. Still, I know as we are speaking, Sutho is working on his car. Repairing it the era correct way many shops in 67 were still straightening and repairing body panels. Lead is such a forgotten art, it would be great to see photos of him using the slapsticks, paddles, and files on his pacer. You won't find that kind of craftmanship demonstrated at very many sites anywhere on the net.
Posts: 2961 | Location: Illinois | Registered: 26 August 2006
I too would like to see that.. Can you imagine how many dudes buy all the lead and tools that Eastwood offers..only to be clumsy and skill-less and pile it all in the corner of the garage whilst cracking open a fresh can of plastic
tom @ camaropacecars.com ( remove the space between m,@,c)
Posts: 13401 | Location: Arlington Mass | Registered: 01 May 2005
Spent the last two nights between body shops.. Got the car back into the shop for 1/4's and per usual took it to the nexy level and decided to pull the conv. top frame so I can bring it home and detail + paint it there at night
tom @ camaropacecars.com ( remove the space between m,@,c)
Posts: 13401 | Location: Arlington Mass | Registered: 01 May 2005
Gary - I couldnt have said it any better myself. WE SHARE HERE.
) is the only way in the world I can think to make it mint again.. You can't just bury it in primer bacause you'll loose all the sheet metal detail and have that " Bondo bucket" look. With the green stuff you can sand it all back down but the pock marks stay filled.. one heavy pull of primer after that and some finish work and your good
