Hi Guys,

(Jim)This is my first meeting of 67 Pace Car anonymous, I have a problem.

(The Group) Hi Jim!

(Jim)Attached are pics of the new baby - Tommy McG knows the details. I OWE HIM BIG TIME for his efforts to educate me both before and after the purchase.

Here's a few pics & a short description - found it in Boise Idaho - my boss owned it since 95 but sold it last year when he moved from Boise to Austin. A Saturn sales manager bought it - and the Saturn biz ain't so great lately, so he called my boss and offered to sell it back. He didn't want it but offered it to me. Given my current backup of projects and lack of garage space, I sure didn't need it - but what the heck! My boss bought it from an 85 yr old guy in Visalia, CA - and I'm still working on the ownership chain before that...

4P Cowl tag - should be a 295HP/350 car, but it looks like the entire driveline was yanked at some point. Motor is now a 402 big block truck block with unknown heads and cam. Rear end is a monoleaf 10 bolt non-posi (yes - that is a scary combo). Still a muncie 4 speed but I don't have the numbers yet. C-1 paint code.

Best part is VERY LITTLE RUST - but she's got a cranky motor/pump for the power top - so if anyone's looking to sell one... And one of the hidden headlight doors doesn't work - even though the motor was replaced (according to the PO).

What info can I get off the car for everybody? Tom M already has bunch of pics - and I'm working on the owners forum paperwork now...

I'm sure I'll need help/parts/advice - just ask Tom - I've been burning his email wires lately.

Jim

Hi Jim,
Welcome to the Pace Car site!!!

You are in good company here and lots of 67 Camaro freaks here. We have all admitted to our 67 Camaro addiction here. It is a good place to get your daily fix! LOL Some of us don't get enough of these cars and sometimes go out and get two or three of these Camaro's!

Looks like you have yourself a real nice little Pacer there. Paint looks real good. Being that it is a California car there should be very little rust on it. What are your plans for this Pacer? Are you going to try to put it back to an original as possible condition? Or just drive her around like this? If you have an idea of parts you can start listing things you need.

We love pictures here too, so the more you post the more drool gets on our screens!

Welcome again to the site. Glad you found your way here.

Hey Tom D,

I thought I'd go resto-mod - you know, LS7, tremec 6 speed, Ford 9 inch...

JUST KIDDING!!!

Plan is to drive it as is for now and save my money for the garage addition I need so I can actually have room to work on it. I've certainly got lots of odds and ends to fix. The big thing is the powertrain - I want to make sure this wasn't one of those few small block cowl tag cars with a big block in it...

But she's a driver for now - once I get the horn, headlight door, and top motor fixed...

Jim

PS - anybody know where I can find the horn witing diagram? I gotta trouble shoot it.

more pics

interior shot

Jim, car looks nice. I had to replace the whole pump/motor for my power top. Cost was around $220.00. I can't remember who sold it, but I can find out. Love that steering wheel. Thanks for sharing.

Jim,
Your Pacer looks good enough to go cruising in for awhile before doing a resto on it. Good plan! I would do the same thing.

I too had to replace my leaking, worn out power top motor/pump. I tried rebuilding it with the new seal kit but worn out is worn out and it was a waste of time, and it still leaked all over.
There is a generic pump with 4 mount feet that is a little cheaper, but they also reproduce the correct three feet mount motor/pump. Put one in (correct three feet one)and haven't had any problem since, top went up and down quicker as well.
A few of the Camaro parts places have them, I believe I got mine from Rick's First Generation Camaro Parts.

Welcome to the site!!!

http://www.rickscamaros.com/pr...P%2D4&dept%5Fid=3266

Thanks Mike L,

I am usually the "do it cheaper myself" kind of guy, but it probably would be smarter just replace the pump this time. Looks it comes with the little rubber feetie things too? Also - if someone has a pic of their power convertible top switch under the dash, that would be great - mine feels like a standard 3 way radio shack switch - it must be returned to center each time - it isn't momentary in the up or down position. My car also has a rear POWER antenna 3 way switch right next to the top switch - it almost look stock but I know power antennas were not offered. So I need to find a stock non-power antenna - are the rear ones the same as the front fender antennas? So many questions... And what's up with my steering wheel - it sure doesn't match the SS/RS emblem wheels I see in the top photo on this site.

as always - THANKS PEOPLE... and how's the weather up there Mike? I start not to miss my old Detroit climate about this time every year...

Jim

Thanks for signing up Jim! Your cars is super and the guys are gonna love helping you out..

Buy the antenna, pump, switch and titties right from the vendor and that'll solve your problems there...

That wheel is the correct deluxe wheel.. Unwrap the rim and lets check her out! She's probably cracked but thats ok

Ricks is running a 15% off sale right now for orders over 175 bucks.. buzz em up and lets get things started

The wheel is the right wheel... leave it alone.. I know what your thinking.. one of those billet aluminum flying wing wheels that looks like the things some martial arts guy throws at you to cut your head off

trim tag

interior overhead - and yeah, I tighened that screw about to fall out of the wiper motor. In case you can't guess, the last 2 owners were not "car guys". I can trace the ownership back to 1983 so far - but no POP or owner's manual - at least not YET... The internet is a wonderful thing for finding people. So far the car was in Concord,Los Banos, and Visilia CA - and Boise ID. NO RUST that I can find.. YIPPEE...

Thats a dang nice car Jim.. Hey your trimtag has that tell tale sign where the bottom pinch bead changes thickness right under the tractor feed hole... super cool

Weather is not too bad yet. Been in the high'50s, to mid 60's lately and right it the middle of the fall colors with the trees turning. Nice time of year really.
Don't have a picture of the top switch installed in car. They sell the switch itself, but if yours is missing you probabaly will need the swith and the housing, a bit salty at $56. There should be a little rectangular opening at the bottom edge of the dash gauge housing to the left of the steering column. The swith housing screws into the two holes in the bottom edge of the dash on either side of the rectangular opening. When then motor gets old and worn out the excessive current it draws will fry the switch. Probabaly why they replaced it.

Here the switch and housing:

http://www.rickscamaros.com/pr...%2D23&dept%5Fid=3266

Edit. It just occured to me that they probably cut of the connector that plugs into the stock top switch so that will add to the trouble expense. Not sure where you'd get the connector.

Jim,
Are you planning to put Pace Car decals on your doors? The interior looks all original too.

If that is single stage paint I'd look into cutting and buffing the whole car out and then have the pinstripe put on as well as the decals.. then redline tires and watch out baby.. instant upgrade!

Yes - if I wanted to star in the Memorial Day Parade, that's what I'd do - and don't forget the flag holders on the rear bumper, right Tommy McG?

Speaking of the rear bumper - it is tweaked in two places - and has 2 holes on each side under the tweaked spots - I suspect a U-haul hitch at some point... Any other ideas? Is it better to replace bumpers - or can you still get them straightened and re-chromed for a decent price?

Here's a pic of the rear end (the car's - not mine)The tweaks are just inboard of the bolt heads.

Jim

The decals would certainly spruce this baby up, along with the pinstriping.

I would look for a NOS rear bumper that doesn't need to be re-chromed is my first choice. That way you know you have a good straight bumper.

The rear antenna's are different than the front. They are an oval shape and the chrome bezel for the rear antenna has a angle to it. There is a notch in the hole of the body to align the bezel up correctly.

first test drive did not go well..

no spark - but it will restart/run when it cools down - I suspect the coil & HEI module.

We'll see today...

Jim

Hey Jim,
Sorry to hear that the first test run didn't go well. But you know, even on a flat bed trailer those 67 Pacers look great. It's not where we would like to see them, but I bet that tow truck driver liked it, unless he is a Ford fan! Awesome ride Jim! She will be passing by that tow truck soon.

Replaced HEI coil, module, and cap - AND then found vacuum advance wasn't working either - wouldn't hold vacuum. So all that is replaced - and she's running good now. THANK GOD I know a few things about carbs and distibutors from High School - or I don't want to think about the repair bills on this one...

Starting working on the horn no worky problem, Took off the wheel cover and found the little plunger thing was missing - so there was nothing to make contact with the horn flex plate. So we fixed that - all buttons worked - then I took a test drive - and NO HORN. It will work if the wheel is off center - but nothing if straight ahead - so I assume there must be a contact ring that's dirty or worn? Help?

Jim

some more progress today. Took driver's door apart to find out why the inside release lever wasn't work - turns out that it was - I just wasn't been "man enough" to yank it open. I little lube on the link inside the door and she's much smoother now...

On to the Pass. headlight door - started by removing the motor and testing it. Motor shows open on the meter and is locked up solid. It was supposed to be brand new from the PO - and it looked brand new - but it was burned up. I removed it from the gearbox and was able to break it loose - but it's still rough - and won't turn.

So I'm a newbie to 67 headlight doors - if the limit switches are bad or not properly adjusted, can that burn out the motor? I am guessing it would just sit there and run until it burned up?

Advice appreciated...

Jim

Jim,

Check my thread out espeially Page 13. Hopefully some of the discussion here will help with the lights.

I'm going through the same problems on my drivers door. That is on my to do list.

http://camaropacecars.com/eve/...33/m/6900079175/p/13

Tom Weaver

I've been looking for an NOS rear bumper for 10 years! no dice for one reason or another.. The repro that I got for my C-1 because I was beating it up a little for the flag poles anyway fit so badly underneath I can't even discuss it right now.. The chrome blows as well

Rechrome would be the way I suppose or else try another aftermarket vendor.. I got mine from Ricks.. so don't go there